Berry Bros & Rudd 2010

Berry Bros & Rudd is a long-established London wine and spirits merchant whose rum bottlings are single casks. This 2010 is a nine year old from an undisclosed Mauritius distillery, made from molasses rather than cane juice, so it sits outside the agricole tradition despite its island origin.

Matured in ex-bourbon oak, the spirit turns up an unusual, almost whisky-like character: a smoky, woody, mild nose with a distinct whisky edge, a palate of wood, dark berries and smoke, and a fruity, smoky, intense finish. Several tasters note how little it reads as a typical Mauritius rum, leaning peaty and Scotch-like instead, which makes it a curiosity rather than a textbook island pour. There is no added sugar. At 46% it is a dry, smoke-streaked single cask that will most appeal to whisky drinkers exploring rum, or to anyone who enjoys a rum that defies its origin.