Bernardo Estévez Chánselus Castes Tinto 2019

Bernardo Estévez works in D.O. Ribeiro, in the green northwest of Galicia, recovering native red grapes that appear on few labels. This bottling blends Brancellao, Caíño Tinto, Mencía, Souson and Tinta Amarela, the kind of Atlantic field blend the region has long grown. The maritime climate here is cool and wet, and the granite and sandy soils, with a warm ripening window on the better slopes, give reds that stay light in body and high in acidity rather than heavily extracted. Farming is biodynamic, and the wine spends nine months in 500-litre French oak barrels, a large format that softens the tannins and adds only a light frame of spice without covering the fruit. The colour is a bright mid ruby. The nose leads with fresh red fruit, cherry and raspberry, over dried herbs, black pepper and a floral rose lift. The palate is fresh and savoury, with fine grained tannins, red currant acidity and an earthy, stony finish typical of Ribeiro. Serve at 15 to 16 degrees, in a Burgundy glass. It suits roast chicken, grilled oily fish and mushroom dishes.