Bernado Estévez y Xico Mandín Ceibe 2023

Ceibe, meaning free in Galician, is the joint project of Bernardo Estévez and Xico Mandín, two growers who farm a mosaic of small plots in the D.O. Monterrei of inland Galicia. The wine blends Brancellao with Mencía and other old local varieties, the rare Brancellao bringing a pale colour, floral perfume and bright acidity, the Mencía adding red fruit and a peppery lift. The vineyards sit on granite-influenced soils that drain freely and give the wines their cool, mineral tension, while the steep, hand-worked plots and biodynamic farming keep yields low and the fruit expressive. The wine is raised nine months in oak barrels, where slow oxygen exchange through the wood softens the tannin and settles the fruit without masking it, the oak kept light to protect the floral, fresh-fruited character. Expect a pale ruby red with ripe strawberry, red cherry and a clear floral note over black pepper and a stony, earthy minerality. The palate is light and juicy, with fine tannin, fresh acidity and an easy, savoury finish. Serve lightly cool at 14 to 16 degrees. It suits charcuterie, roast pork and mushroom dishes.