Begali La Cengia Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore 2023

La Cengia is a Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore from Lorenzo Begali, a family estate in the Valpolicella Classico zone of Veneto. The blend is the regional core of Corvina and Rondinella with other local red varieties. Ripasso is the defining method: the young Valpolicella is racked onto the lees and pomace left from Amarone production and allowed to referment, which raises alcohol, body and glycerol while extracting extra colour, tannin and dried-fruit character, giving a wine partway between fresh Valpolicella and full Amarone. The hillside vineyards of the Classico zone sit on limestone and volcanic soils that lend freshness and lift to the warm, ripe fruit. Twelve months in barrel rounds the tannin and adds a spiced, savoury frame. The colour is deep ruby. The nose shows ripe cherry, plum and raisin over clove, dark chocolate and a leathery note from the Ripasso passage. The palate is full bodied and warm, with soft tannin, moderate acidity and a long, slightly sweet-fruited finish. Serve at 17 to 18C, decanting an hour ahead. Good with braised beef, roast lamb or hard cheese.