Barbeito Branco Vinhas Do Lanço 2020

Barbeito is known for fortified Madeira, but under Ricardo Freitas the estate also makes a small run of still wines, and this Verdelho is one of them. The grapes come from steep volcanic terraces cooled by the surrounding ocean, a maritime setting that holds natural acidity high and keeps alcohol low, here just eleven percent. The wine spends fourteen months in a mix of stainless steel tanks and barrel, then a further eight months in bottle before release. Tank preserves the bright primary fruit while the time in barrel and on its lees adds a little breadth and texture without pushing oak to the front. It pours a pale citrus colour with greenish reflections. The nose is elegant and fresh, led by lemon, green apple and white flowers, with a faint saline note that reflects the island soils. The palate is lean and precise, its citrus and orchard fruit framed by firm acidity and a clean, mineral finish. Serve well chilled at around 10 degrees.