Barbadillo As de Mirabrás 2024

Barbadillo is one of the historic houses of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and As de Mirabrás is its still, unfortified take on Palomino Fino, the grape better known for Sherry. The old vines sit on albariza, the brilliant white soil of the region that is rich in chalk and diatomaceous limestone. Albariza holds winter rain deep in its structure and reflects the strong Andalusian sun, feeding the vines through a dry summer while the nearby Atlantic keeps night temperatures down and drives freshness into the fruit. Vines over thirty years old crop modestly and root deeply, which concentrates flavour and carries the saline signature of the soil. The wine is fermented dry and made without the flor ageing of Sherry, so the fruit stays clean and direct rather than nutty. Expect a pale colour, a nose of lemon, green apple and white flowers, and a palate that is lean and mineral with a chalky, salt-edged finish and a touch of almond. Serve well chilled at around 9C in a standard white glass. It is a natural match for fresh seafood and fried fish.