As Caborcas 2022

As Caborcas is made by the Compañía de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez in Valdeorras, Galicia, the project run by oenologists Telmo Rodríguez and Pablo Eguzkiza with experience drawn from Burgundy and Rioja. Their approach favours the local grapes of each region they work in. Here that means a field blend led by Mencía with Garnacha Tinta, Godello, Merenzao and Souson, co-planted and harvested together. The vineyards sit on steep terraces of slate and schist in the Atlantic-influenced west of Spain, where poor, free-draining soils, altitude and cool, wet conditions give wines with freshness and a distinct mineral edge rather than weight. Whole-bunch material is common in this style, lending aromatic lift and structure. Ageing is twelve months in large foudres, which allow gentle oxygen exchange while keeping oak flavour to a minimum, so the slate character carries through. The colour is bright medium ruby. The nose shows wild red berries, cherry, dried herbs and woodsmoke. The palate is medium-bodied and fresh, with fine tannin, savoury depth and a stony, peppery finish. Serve at 15 to 16 degrees. It suits game birds and roast meats.