Antoniolo Gattinara Riserva Osso San Grato 2018

Antoniolo is one of the leading names in Gattinara, a small appellation in northern Piedmont where Nebbiolo is grown on weathered volcanic porphyry rather than the limestone marls of the Langhe. Osso San Grato is one of the estate's prized single sites, and its iron-rich, acidic soils give a wine of cooler, more savoury character than Barolo, with marked perfume and a particular mineral edge. Wide swings between warm days and cold nights at this northern latitude preserve the grape's high acidity and slow the development of its tannins. The wine is farmed organically. Ageing is long, with three years in oak followed by a year in bottle before release, time that lets the firm tannins resolve and the fruit fold into earthier, tertiary aromas. The colour is pale garnet with a brick rim typical of aged Nebbiolo. The nose leads with rose and violet, then sour cherry, forest floor and a bitter quinine note. The palate is structured and savoury, with high acidity and fine, drying tannin running through a long finish. Serve at 17 to 18 degrees in a large glass and decant. It is built for roast game and mushroom dishes.