Antoniolo Gattinara Riserva 2020

Antoniolo, founded by Mario Antoniolo in the 1940s on the vineyards of a former monastery, is among the best-known producers in Gattinara, a small appellation in the far north of Piedmont. The grape is Nebbiolo, here grown on iron-rich volcanic porphyry rather than the calcareous marls of the Langhe, which gives the wine its cooler, more savoury and mineral profile. The northern climate brings wide day-to-night temperature swings that hold the grape's high acidity and slow the ripening of its tannins. The estate is farmed organically. This Riserva is aged three years in barrel followed by a year in bottle before release, an extended maturation that lets the assertive tannins settle and the fruit develop earthier, tertiary aromas through slow oxygen exchange in the wood. The wine is pale garnet with the brick edge of maturing Nebbiolo. The nose opens with rose and violet, then sour cherry, forest floor and a touch of liquorice. The palate is structured and savoury, with firm acidity and fine, drying tannin carrying a long finish. Serve at 17 to 18 degrees in a large glass, decanting young examples. It is made for roast and braised meats and earthy mushroom dishes.