António Madeira Branco 2023

António Madeira works in the DOC Dão, in the Beiras region of central Portugal, a granite-based appellation ringed by mountains that give it a cool, protected climate. This white is a field blend of around twenty native varieties, including Bical, Fernão Pires, Arinto and Cercial, all interplanted in old vineyards where the vines range from fifty to a hundred and twenty years old. The plots sit on decomposed granite soils at around 450 metres of altitude; the height and the poor, granitic ground give low yields, high acidity and a firm mineral line. The fruit is picked by hand and the wine is aged on its lees, which adds texture and a savoury depth while keeping the profile fresh and unoaked. The wine is pale and bright. The nose shows lemon and green apple alongside fresh herbs, wildflowers and a hint of fennel, with a salinity that recalls the coast. The palate is dry and taut, driven by high acidity and a stony, herbal, saline finish that comes from the old vines and granite. Serve at 9 to 11 degrees. It suits grilled fish, shellfish and herb-dressed salads.