António Madeira A Liberdade 2022

António Madeira works small, old parcels high in the Serra da Estrela, in Portugal's Dão region, farming them biodynamically. A Liberdade is a field blend of traditional white grapes, chiefly Arinto, Bical, Cercial and Fernão Pires, from ancient vineyards that escaped agricultural modernisation. The soils are decomposed granite, which drains hard and reflects in the wine as a fine, stony minerality, while the altitude brings cool nights and a wide diurnal range that holds acidity and keeps the aromatics fresh. The grapes ferment and age for twelve months split between barrel and stainless steel tank, so the wine gains texture and a little breadth from the wood and lees contact without taking on obvious oak flavour. Arinto supplies the backbone of citrus and acidity, with the other varieties adding orchard fruit and a floral top note. The colour is bright straw. The nose is fresh and mineral, with green apple, white peach, lemon and white flowers, and a faint almond note from the lees. The palate is dry and taut, the fruit framed by firm acidity and a saline, granitic finish. Serve at 10 to 12C.