Altún San Quiles 2023

Altún was founded in 1994 by José Antonio Martínez and sits in Rioja Alavesa, working with Graciano as a single variety rather than as the usual blending partner to Tempranillo. Graciano ripens late and holds high acidity and deep colour, which suits the cooler limestone and clay soils of the Álava side of the region, where the Sierra de Toloño tempers the warmth and the diurnal swing keeps the fruit fresh. This bottling is aged for ten months in oak barrels and a further four in old stone lagares, a slow oxidative passage that softens the grape's naturally firm tannin while keeping its dark fruit intact. The wine is deep ruby, with a nose of plum, black cherry and liquorice lifted by dried herbs and pepper. The palate is medium to full bodied, with bright acidity, fine grippy tannin and a savoury earthy finish that reflects Graciano's structural character. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees, decanting an hour ahead to open the fruit. It works well with roast lamb, grilled beef and mushroom dishes.