Abuelo XV Oloroso

Abuelo is the flagship of Varela Hermanos, the Panamanian house at Destileria Don Jose that also supplies bulk rum to a long roster of independent labels. This XV expression takes the brand's soft, vanilla and spice column-still molasses base and gives it an Oloroso sherry treatment, layering sherried richness over an already mellow Panama profile.

The sherry stamp is unmistakable. The nose carries honey, sherry, dried fruit and oak, the palate is sweet and sherried with honey and wood, and the finish turns toasted and lightly smoky with raisin. It drinks sweet and dessert friendly, the kind of pour that suits an after-dinner moment or sharing with friends who lean toward richer styles. The sweetness is part of the design rather than the wood alone, so it is honest to call this a smooth, sherry driven sipper rather than a bone-dry one, and it rewards an unhurried glass.