Abel Mendoza Suelos 2021

Abel Mendoza and Maite Fernández began in 1988 in San Vicente de la Sonsierra, in the high Rioja Alta, championing local grapes and a patient, vineyard-led approach when few shared it. Suelos is pure Tempranillo, named for the soils it is meant to express, and the vines are farmed organically. The Sonsierra sits on the cooler northern bank below the Sierra de Cantabria, where the range shelters the vineyards and the Atlantic influence brings fresh nights, so the 2021 ripened slowly and kept its acidity at 14.5 percent alcohol. Ageing in barrel allows gentle oxygen exchange that settles the tannin and adds spice and depth without burying the fruit. The colour is cherry red with a violet rim. The nose is complex and balsamic, with cherry and plum, cocoa and a hint of liquorice running through. The palate is medium to full, with bright fruit, fine tannin and an earthy, mineral undertow that reflects the organic, soil-focused farming, finishing long and savoury. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees and give it time in the glass. It suits roast and grilled meats, mushroom dishes and aged cheese.