Rhum J.M Single Barrel (Foundations) 2016

Rhum J.M distills at the far northern foot of Mont Pelee, drawing on the volcanic terroir that gives its rums their reputation, and this Foundations release is a single barrel filled in 2016 and bottled eight years later. It is rhum agricole in the full AOC sense, made from fresh pressed cane juice on a Creole column still that distills low to keep the green, vegetal congeners intact.

Eight years in ex bourbon oak, all of it in the Caribbean heat, has drawn deep colour and structure while leaving the cane character legible. Expect a duet of spice and fruit, nutmeg, cinnamon, vanilla, pepper and chilli set against orange zest and exotic yellow fruit, with woody dried fruit carrying a long, dry finish. Bottled at cask strength and unsweetened, it sits comfortably neat and shows the maturity tropical ageing brings well beyond the same years spent in a cooler climate.