Rhum J.M Canopée (Rhum Agricole Hors d’Âge) 2023

Rhum J.M distils in the far north of Martinique beneath Mont Pelee, working volcanic terroir and a creole column, and Canopee is its hors d'age expression, an AOC tier requiring at least six years in oak. Bottled unsweetened from fresh pressed cane juice at a sociable 46%, it leans toward maturity and polish rather than raw cane snap.

The nose turns woody and spiced, with candied fruit and a grape like note, while the palate moves into dried fruit, chocolate and a distinct nutty, pastry character. The finish carries roasted nuts, caramelised wood and gentle spice, the agricole grassiness sitting quietly beneath the oak. This is a refined, wood forward take on the style that rewards a little attention while staying thoroughly approachable, a relaxed sipper for fans of mature, spice led agricole rather than fresh, vegetal whites.