Rum Nation Versailles Demerara 1985

Rum Nation is an Italian house known for well-judged regional bottlings, and this 1985 Versailles is one of its older Demerara releases, drawn from the single wooden pot still that sits between Enmore and Port Mourant in weight, robust and tannic with a raw-wood backbone. Bottled at twenty-three years and a relaxed 43%, it is poured for elegance rather than power.

The nose is layered and fruity, orange peel, passion fruit, currants and peaches, while the palate turns richer with coffee, dark chocolate, prunes and demerara sugar before a finish bright with raspberry, cherry, dried apricot and pineapple. Wood, leather, tobacco and tea run underneath in the classic Versailles manner. The result is refined and old-school, a smooth, contemplative sipper that drinks drier than its dessert notes suggest. It suits anyone who enjoys well-aged El Dorado specials but wants a leaner, more traditional Versailles take.