Caperdonich 24 Years Old 1980 (Connoisseurs Choice)

From the Elgin house Gordon and MacPhail, a 24 year old Caperdonich, distilled in 1980, bottled at 46%. Caperdonich was built in 1898 as Glen Grant No.2, the sister distillery across the road from Glen Grant. It reopened in 1965 to feed Glen Grant's booming Italian trade, and took the Caperdonich name in 1977.

It was made in tall copper stills for a light, fruity spirit, giving the soft pear and mint of the house style. An Oloroso hogshead lent raisin, fig and a savoury edge. At this evaporative stage ellagitannins lend a drying structure while oxidation builds waxy tropical fruit. Maturation in the cool north east kept the spirit fresh across long years. It was rarely bottled as a single malt in its lifetime, so most come from independents. Vanillin and oak lactones from the wood lend vanilla and coconut over the fruit. Closed in 2002 and later demolished, its profile is fixed for good.

Reduced to 46%, it is mellow. Mango, pear and a soft vanilla, with dried fruit, fig and walnut from the cask. It is creamy and fruity, the soft spirit shining through. A long, fruity finish carries a tropical lift. This is a rare Speyside single malt from a demolished distillery.