Caol Ila 25 Years Old (59.4%)

Caol Ila, a distillery release, a 25 year old, from 1978, at 59.4%, 6000 bottles in all. Caol Ila is prized for a smoke that leans to lemon and olive oil rather than tar. Port Askaig is a tiny settlement on the rugged east coast of Islay.

This was worked from peated malt for the lighter Islay style, for the light, maritime smoke Caol Ila is known for. An American oak hogshead added vanilla and a light toffee. At this oxidative, evaporative stage ellagitannins lend a polished, drying structure while slow oxidation brings waxy tropical fruit over a ghost of peat. The clean spirit shows the cask clearly, which is why it suits so many wood types. The oily texture comes from the spirit cut, the cask adding depth around it. Maturation by the sea gives the malt its mineral, sea spray character. Phenols from the peat smoke carry the medicinal, lemony edge through the years.

At a natural 59.4% it is full and oily. A fresh peat smoke over oily lemon, with a gentle oak sweetness beneath. A sea salt and an olive oil note sit under the smoke. Lemon, soft ash and sea salt see it out. This is an elegant Islay single malt.