Ledaig 2011 MM (Murray McDavid) (55.1%)

Single malt Ledaig, from the independent bottler Murray McDavid, a 12 year old release from 2011, drawn from cask 2301852 and bottled at 55.1%. Only 81 bottles were released. Ledaig is the peated malt made at Tobermory on Mull, a distillery founded as Ledaig in 1798. Ledaig, the old name kept for the peated malt, means safe haven in Gaelic.

It was distilled from peated malt in kinked copper stills on soft Mull water, giving a sooty, coastal peat smoke over a fruity sweetness. Ex-Sherry wood added dried fruit to the smoky spirit. Past a decade the smoke softens, the soot and brine settling over ripe fruit. A patient maturation suits the bold, smoky Ledaig character. A rare, more heavily peated make has appeared under the name Iona, after a neighbouring isle. In dry summers the distillery has paused when its hill loch ran low. The distillery sits at the head of the bay, beneath a steep wooded hill.

Undiluted at 55.1%, it is powerful. Peat smoke, brine and a medicinal note, and the Pedro Ximenez lends raisin, date and treacle. A BBQ char and a sea salt lift it. The finish is deep, tarry and sweet. This is Ledaig, the peated malt of the Isle of Mull.