Port Ellen 19 Years Old 1981 The Old Malt Cask (Douglas Laing)

Douglas Laing bottled this Port Ellen single malt matured to 19 year old, from 1981 and bottled at 50%. Only 474 bottles were released. Port Ellen stood by the sea on Islay's south shore from its founding in 1825 until it was silenced in 1983 when Islay had one distillery too many. Its last casks were laid down in 1983, a finite legacy ever since.

Drawn off traditional pot stills fed by the Leorin Lochs, to build a smoke at once oily, briny and refined. Maturation in Oloroso sherry laid smoked dried fruit over the peat. Past twenty years the smoke mellows and the oily, waxy texture builds. The slow loss of the angel's share, a percent or two each year, has concentrated the liquid over decades. Port Ellen was one of three Diageo Islay distilleries, the one judged surplus in 1983.

At cask strength 50% it is muscular. The Oloroso brings smoked fig, raisin and walnut, and lemon zest and coastal salt ride on a soft maritime smoke, with a touch of vanilla and cream from the wood. It is structured and a touch austere, the refill oak keeping it lean. A waxy, gently medicinal finish lingers long. This is a collectable relic of a cult Islay name.