Port Ellen 12 Years Old

This Port Ellen, an official release, at 12 year old, and bottled at 40%. Only 40 bottles were released. Port Ellen, dating to 1825 beside the bay at Port Ellen on Islay, was closed in 1983 and long mourned. Most of its make once went to blends, but its single malt became the prize.

Made in onion shaped stills on soft Islay water, building the oily, briny style it is loved for. It was matured in refill ex-Bourbon oak, the classic wood for Port Ellen. At this age the smoke is still bright and forward, the spirit lively. The slow loss of the angel's share, a percent or two each year, has concentrated the liquid over decades. The peat came from Islay's own Duich Moss, localising the whole character. For years the spirit went quietly into blends before its single malt became a legend. Each Diageo Special Release thinned a stock that could never be replaced.

At 40% it is smooth and elegant. Lemon zest and coastal salt ride on a soft maritime smoke, with a touch of vanilla and cream from the wood. It is structured and a touch austere, the refill oak keeping it lean. A waxy, gently medicinal finish lingers long. This is a revered Islay malt from a distillery silent for forty years.