Oban Distillers Edition 15 Years Old 1992

Bottled in 2007 from a 1992 vintage, this 15 year old joins the Distillers Edition, double matured with a spell in Montilla Fino casks. It comes from one of the oldest and tiniest distilleries in Scotland, in production since 1794 in the harbour town of Oban and still working a single pair of tiny stills.

A first maturation in ex-Bourbon oak was followed by a finish in the palest, driest style of sherry. Oban's spirit is built on long fermentation and a patient run through compact pot stills, then cooled in wooden worm tub condensers warmed to stretch the copper contact, which keeps the make clean and fruity. Only a handful of Scottish distilleries still condense through worms, and Oban runs its unusually hot to recover copper from a low reflux set up.

In the glass at 43% it reads crisp rather than sweet. The flor leaves the cask dry, so it contributes almond, a sea salt edge and a faint bread note instead of raisin, the spent oak softening that with a little vanilla. Honey, orchard fruit and salt spray sit underneath, a faint smokiness carrying a finish that runs long and savoury. The result is brisk and coastal, a whisky that drinks as an aperitif more than a digestif.