Rancho Tepúa Bacanora Blanco

Rancho Tepúa Bacanora Blanco is an unaged bacanora from Aconchi in the state of Sonora, made by maestro vinatero Roberto Contreras. Bacanora is Sonora's agave spirit, legal again only since 1992 after a 77 year prohibition, and by law it is 100% Agave angustifolia Haw, the same species as espadin, here grown in the desert north under the local name Pacifica. Production is small and done by hand, which keeps the desert terroir front and centre.

The hearts are roasted underground over mesquite for around 36 hours, a step that concentrates flavour and lends a smoky finish, then fermented on wild yeast and double distilled. The result is mild on the palate yet complex, leading with deep cooked agave and a lot of mint, spearmint and peppermint over a touch of eucalyptus, followed by candied lemon and ginger. A warming minerality and a drift of pine and cedar smoke round it out. Bottled at 44.5%.