Port Ellen 21 Years Old 1979 The Old Malt Cask (Douglas Laing)

Douglas Laing bottled this Port Ellen single malt, aged 21 year old, from 1979 and bottled at 50%. 336 bottles in all. Established in 1825 on the Kildalton shore of Islay, Port Ellen was brought to a halt in 1983. Its last casks were laid down in 1983, a finite legacy ever since.

Distilled in onion shaped copper pot stills on Leorin Lochs water, yielding the poised, maritime smoke of classic Port Ellen. It was matured in refill ex-Bourbon oak, the classic wood for Port Ellen. Around two decades in oak knit the smoke with the wood into a maritime, citrus edged malt. Refill wood flatters Port Ellen, holding back the vanilla so the smoke and citrus speak. Its cult grew with every passing year the warehouses stayed quiet. The closed era spirit is finite, and every bottle drawn is one fewer left. The spirit breathed sea air through long maturation on the island.

At cask strength 50% it is muscular. Lemon zest and coastal salt ride on drifting Islay peat smoke, with a thread of vanilla from the bourbon wood. It is structured and a touch austere, the refill oak keeping it lean. It fades on smoke, citrus and a saline tang. This is spirit from the lost years of Port Ellen, finite for good.