Oban Distillers Edition 15 Years Old 1987

From a 1987 vintage bottled in 2002, this 15 year old belongs to the Distillers Edition, the long running line that seasons Oban in Montilla Fino sherry. The whisky is from the tiny urban distillery working since 1794, among Scotland's oldest and smallest distilleries and set in the heart of the Oban harbour.

It was double matured, first in ex-Bourbon oak and then in the pale, dry Fino wood. Made the traditional Oban way, the spirit runs slowly off the small stills into outdoor worm tubs whose warm water lifts the copper conversation and keeps the make light and fruity, a clean base for the sherry. The dry Fino character makes these editions natural aperitifs, the salinity sitting easily beside seafood, which feels right for a whisky from a working west coast fishing port.

At its 43% bottling strength it is crisp and lean. Because the flor strips the wine of sugar, the cask gives almond, a faint biscuity note and a saline edge rather than sweet fruit, the oak adding just a touch of vanilla. That snap lifts the honey, citrus and sea air of the spirit, the smoke gentle and the finish running long and faintly nutty. It is the sherry touched companion to the standard 14, pitched as an aperitif.