A.H. Riise Non Plus Ultra La Galante

A.H. Riise Non Plus Ultra La Galante is a Virgin Islands molasses rum from a brand whose bottlings sit closer to rum liqueur than to a dry sipper. Presented in a striking display bottle, it is built around sweetness and easy indulgence rather than restraint, a dessert style pour for those who enjoy the sweeter, softer end of the category. It is honest in its register, leaning unashamedly rich.

The heavy sweetness leads throughout, carrying orange peel, vanilla, caramel and a nutty, woody character, with raisin and a touch of spice on the finish. At 43.4 percent the alcohol stays well hidden behind the sugar, so it drinks soft and rounded. Drinkers who favour Spanish style sweetness or rum liqueurs will find it an indulgent upgrade, while those who prefer dry, structured rums will find the sugar dominant. Taken as an after dinner treat or alongside a cigar, it does its sweet, easy job well.