Isautier L’Apollonie 2023

Isautier is a long-standing Reunion distillery, and L'Apollonie is an aged cane juice rum bottled unsweetened at a hefty 58%, with around a dozen years behind it. Reunion sits outside the protected agricole appellations, so this is agricole-style rum from fresh cane juice rather than a legal rhum agricole, and it is built for drinkers who like power and oak.

Maturation in ex-bourbon barrels dominates the profile in the best way: woody, oaky and fruity on the nose with dried fruit, a palate of oak, dark chocolate and citrus, then a long finish of dark chocolate, burnt sugar and a bitter edge. Beneath the wood runs a herbal, spicy agricole character that keeps it lively. At full strength it rewards a little time in the glass and a splash of water.