Precious Liquors Enmore Old Demerara Rum (Whisky Paris) 1991

Enmore is home to the last operating wooden Coffey still in the world, and this 1991 vintage from Precious Liquors is a single cask caught at thirty-one years, the kind of long-aged closed-era Demerara that is finite and irreplaceable. Bottled at 48.4% from a single ex-bourbon barrel, it shows the elegant, woody character that sets the wooden Coffey apart from the heavier Port Mourant pot still.

Decades in oak have pushed it deep into mature territory: musty black tea, burnt sugar and a wisp of smoke on the nose, then an intense, tea-and-wood palate with a savoury edge. The finish runs woody and leathery with dried fruit and a cooling minty lift. There is a distinct sour, sharp streak through it that suits drinkers who like their old Demerara taut rather than sweet, the burnt-sugar profile typical of Guyanese rum carried into venerable, contemplative form.