Old Brothers Savanna 68.8 – Excellence Rhum 2019

This Excellence Rhum release sees independent bottler Old Brothers select an unaged Savanna cane juice rum from Réunion, distilled on a Savalle still and bottled at a fierce 68.8%. It sits at the wild, high-ester end of the spectrum, squarely for experienced palates.

The aromatic power is enormous and resolutely savoury. The nose throws solvents, olive, brine and green vegetal notes, while the palate doubles down with olive brine, smoky barbecue and bacon, funky cheese, citrus and a curious thread of bubblegum sweetness. The finish turns smoky and honeyed over more vegetal funk. Bottled without dosage, this is intense, briny and challenging rather than a crowd-pleaser, the kind of rum to sip slowly and well rested, or to deploy sparingly in a bold cocktail where its savoury-fruity character can run riot.