TBRC Issan 2015

TBRC Issan 2015 is a pure cane-juice rum from the Issan distillery in northeastern Thailand, selected by That Boutique-y Rum Company, the honest, no-additive bottler curated by Peter Holland. Made from fresh sugar cane juice rather than molasses, it is an agricole-style spirit, bottled unaged at 40%.

The profile leans funky and vegetal, a fermented, earthy nose with a surprising raspberry lift, and a palate that stays fermented and fruity with dried apricot and more raspberry. Tasters liken it to clairin and light agricole, an underdog with an offbeat, yeasty character that announces its cane-juice roots in a blind glass. The chief limitation is the modest 40% strength, which holds back the punch a high-ester white usually carries. As an unsweetened, experimental Thai twist on agricole it is a fun pour, at its best in a daiquiri or Ti Punch where its fresh, fermented fruit can come alive.