Glencadam 23 Years Old 1998

This official Glencadam, a 23 year old, from 1998, cask 2496, at 47.7%, 532 bottles in all. Glencadam is a Highland single malt whose upward angled lyne arms give a light, fruity spirit. It was bought by Angus Dundee Distillers in 2003, who also own Tomintoul, ending a three year closure. In the 1890s the Glasgow blender Gilmour Thomson used its malt in a Royal blend said to be favoured by Edward VII.

The spirit was taken gently through wash and spirit stills, giving a light, clean, creamy Highland spirit. It was matured in a Pedro Ximenez cask, the wood working into the fruity malt. In the oxidative, evaporative years the spirit concentrates to tropical fruit, honey and a waxy depth. Vanillin and oak lactones from the wood lend vanilla and a soft coconut over the fruit. Years in oak deepen the spirit to old gold, the body growing rounder and creamier with time.

At a natural 47.7% it is full and creamy. Pear, melon and a light barley note, with raisin, date and treacle from the cask. A green apple and a gentle citrus lift the middle. The finish is rounded, fruity and clean. This is a gently fruity, creamy Highland malt.