Glenburgie 28 Years Old 1995 (Murray McDavid)

Murray McDavid bottled this Glenburgie, a 28 year old, distilled in 1995, at 46.1%, one of 531 bottles. Glenburgie is a Speyside single malt made near Alves in Moray, east of Forres. It was founded in 1810 as Kilnflat by William Paul, taking the Glenburgie name in 1878. Its make has long fed big blends like Old Smuggler down the decades. The old distillery was demolished and rebuilt in 2004, only the little stone office left standing.

The spirit was worked unhurried through the stillhouse, for the light, fruity make the Ballantine's blenders prized. It was matured in a Pedro Ximenez cask, the wood working into the fruity malt. In the oxidative, evaporative years the spirit concentrates to tropical fruit, honey and a waxy, candle wax depth. Vanillin and oak lactones from the wood lend vanilla and a soft coconut over the fruit. Active wood frames the fruit without ever crowding the Speyside spirit.

At an approachable 46.1% it is fresh and clean. Apple, pear and fresh cut grass, with raisin, date and treacle from the cask. The body is light and clean, the fruit lifted by a soft oak. The finish is light, fruity and clean. This is a fruity Speyside malt rarely seen on its own.