Glenburgie 21 Years Old 2004 Cask #881

This Glenburgie comes from Gordon and MacPhail, the Elgin grocer laying down casks on South Street since 1895, a 21 year old, distilled in 2004, from cask 881, at 57.3%, one of 243 bottles. Glenburgie is a Speyside single malt, owned by Chivas Brothers and one of the larger Speyside distilleries. It was rebuilt in 1881 by Charles Chree Doig, the architect behind so many Speyside stillhouses. Most of its make goes quietly to blends; single malt Glenburgie is rare, and largely from independents.

Run slowly off the spirit still, giving a fragrant, orchard led Speyside spirit. Maturation came in an Oloroso cask, layered over the fresh Glenburgie make. At oxidative maturity aldehydes lend a nutty edge while ellagitannins draw a gentle, drying grip across the fruit. Years in oak deepen the spirit to old gold, the body growing rounder and waxier with time. A soft waxiness from the spirit carries a thread through the maturation.

Bottled at a cask strength 57.3%, it is concentrated. Apple, pear and a soft honey, with dried fruit, fig and walnut from the cask. Soft apple and a waxy honey sit behind the cask. The close is light and clean, fruit over a gentle oak. This is a fresh, fruity Speyside single malt.