Dallas Dhu 28 Years Old 1982 Licensed Bottling (G&M)

A Dallas Dhu of a 28 year old chosen by the Elgin house Gordon and MacPhail, distilled in 1982, bottled at 40%. Dallas Dhu is the best preserved of the lost distilleries, a Victorian whisky museum frozen in time. It was designed by Charles Doig, the great distillery architect, with his pagoda roofed kiln.

It was distilled in a single pair of pot stills with worm tubs on Altyre Burn water, for a fruity, oily make of real depth. It rested in ex-Bourbon oak, the wood adding a light honeyed vanilla. Oxidative, evaporative ageing turns the malt deep and waxy, ethereal esters and a faint sotolon (maple). Most Dallas Dhu went quietly into the Roderick Dhu blend, a little surviving as single malt. The pot stills gave a fruity, oily spirit that ages slowly and with grace. A revival is now planned, with talk of restarting production at the old distillery. Closed in 1983, it was preserved whole rather than demolished, its profile fixed for good.

At 40% it is gentle, creamy and fruity. Malty fruit, honey and a soft oil, with a soft vanilla from the oak. Soft orchard fruit and a honeyed malt sit behind the cask. A long, fruity finish carries a waxy honey. This is Dallas Dhu's malty, fruity Speyside style.