Pulteney 12 Years Old 2007 (SMWS 52.32)

Bottled by Scotch Malt Whisky Society, this Old Pulteney at 12 year old, from 2007, drawn from cask 52.32 and bottled at 58.2%. 245 bottles in all. Set beside the harbour at Wick in the far north, Pulteney has distilled since 1826. Water comes from Loch Hempriggs, carried by a lade Thomas Telford laid in 1807.

The spirit was made in copper stills of singular shape, fed by soft northern water, and matured on the Caithness coast for a salty lift. An American oak cask shaped it, flattering the waxy, honeyed make. Mid age brings a fuller honey and a deeper maritime note. A gentle, unhurried maturation suits the waxy, honeyed Pulteney character. It is one of the last true urban distilleries, set among the streets of Pulteneytown. Inver House has built its single malt range around the distillery since 1995. The honeyed, waxy core is the signature of the maritime malt of the far north.

Undiluted at 58.2%, it is concentrated. Vanilla and a little cream from the barrel, with a briny, oily edge. It is clean and bright, the coastal salt lifting the honey. It closes long, salty and honeyed. This is a coastal Highland malt from the edge of the country.