Port Ellen 14 Years Old 1983 The Cooper’s Choice (The Vintage Malt Whisky Co Ltd.)

This Port Ellen was from the independent bottler The Vintage Malt Whisky Co Ltd at 14 year old, from 1983 and bottled at 43%. Established in 1825 on the windswept south of Islay, Port Ellen was shut by DCL in 1983. A new Port Ellen opened in 2024, while bottles like this remain from the old.

Heavily peated malt, kilned over Islay peat, set the smoky tone and distilled in copper pot stills with water from the lochs, to give a maritime, citrus edged smoke quite its own. An ex-Bourbon cask shaped it, soft refill oak that lets the smoke lead. At a youthful age the peat reek is clear and the malt fresh. Port Ellen was matured largely in refill casks, which sharpen the smoke and leave the malt a touch austere. Collectors chase these closed era bottles as some of the most prized in Scotch. The 2024 revival rebuilt the stills, but casks like this remain from the original distillery.

At 43% it is soft, smoky and oily. A gently medicinal smoke runs over a waxy, briny lift, with a light vanilla from the refill oak. The texture is oily and coating, the smoke threaded with sea salt. Embers and sea salt see out a long finish. This is stock from the legendary closed era, ever scarcer.