Port Ellen 27 Years Old 1983 Cask #327 (The Auld Alliance)

From The Auld Alliance comes this Port Ellen, a 27 year old from 1983, drawn from cask 327 and bottled at 54.8%. 31 bottles in all. Port Ellen stood by the sea on Islay's south shore from its founding in 1825 until it was silenced in 1983 when Islay had one distillery too many. Its last casks were laid down in 1983, a finite legacy ever since.

Drawn off traditional pot stills fed by the Leorin Lochs, to build a smoke at once oily, briny and refined. An American oak cask shaped it, lending only a light sweetness under the smoke. Long ageing leaves a mellow smoke, a lanolin wax and a maritime depth. Refill wood flatters Port Ellen, holding back the vanilla so the smoke and citrus speak. The casks were filled before the stills fell silent in 1983. Diageo invested heavily to raise the distillery again two centuries on. Long island ageing lends a saline thread to the deep smoke.

At 54.8%, undiluted, it is bold and smoky. Lemon zest and coastal salt ride on embers of Islay peat, with a touch of vanilla and cream from the wood. It is structured and a touch austere, the refill oak keeping it lean. A long, briny finish smoulders to the end. This is a collectable relic of a cult Islay name.