Oban Distillers Edition 14 Years Old 2004

This 14 year old is a 2004 vintage bottled in 2018, part of the Distillers Edition that seasons Oban in Montilla Fino sherry. The make is from one of Scotland's smallest working distilleries, set up in 1794 by the brothers John and Hugh Stevenson in the West Highland port of Oban.

A first maturation in ex-Bourbon oak was followed by a finish in dry Fino wood, the driest of the sherry styles. The spirit comes off compact pot stills and condenses in wooden worm tubs run warm, the long copper contact tempering it into the gentle, fruity make that gives the pale sherry a clean base. Double maturation gives the blender two levers, the long first ageing that builds the body and the shorter sherry spell that seasons it, and dry Fino keeps the second stage savoury rather than sweet.

At 43% it tilts to the savoury. The pale sherry gives roasted almond, a yeasty bread note and a salty tang rather than sweet fruit, the flor keeping it dry while spent lignin adds a soft vanilla. The salt lifts honey, citrus and salt spray, a wisp of smoke trailing a long, dry close. The sherry seasons rather than dominates, leaving a brisk, maritime whisky built for the start of a meal.